Short hop to Campbeltown then some exploring

After all too short a sleep, we slowly roused ourselves and imbibed vast amounts of medicinal tea. That helped dull the lack of sleep feeling, even though it was decaffeinated. The weather was supposed to be dry for a few days so we fancied going to Campbeltown as there are some good cycling opportunities from there. 

The little pontoon area gets pretty busy so the crew called the very friendly and helpful Callum who said that several folks had headed off and there was some space for us. Anchor up (no kelp, just mud this time) and we headed off. You can see the "backtracking" from the anchorage to Campbeltown on our MarineTraffic route:

You will see how much closer to the land we went as it was daylight and dry - pot spotting was much simpler. Approaching the entrance to Campbeltown Bay:

and then heading towards the town, with Davaar island astern:

Despite being tired, we had a wake up shower then a good walk around town. Dear old Calmac still cannot run the summer only service here from Ardrossan which must hurt the local economy. The road trip around is quite a long one in comparison to sitting on a ferry:

There is an alternative involving taking a ferry to Arran, then another from Lochranza over to the Kintyre peninsular if you really want to.... The CalMac terminal here looks seriously sad - they haven't bothered to update their scruffily taped message  in the terminal that is now 3 years old either:

All very sad for "The Wee Toon" as it is known. The expansive harbour area now seems to survive on a few fishing boats and some timber exports. The building of wind turbine blades ended quite a while ago so that export traffic has gone. One of the pilot boats was out for maintenance:

and we were amazed to find two more laying around, waiting for something to do:

How a place that has so little commercial traffic needing a pilot justifies having 3 pilot boats is beyond us. Bet the pilotage charges are high!

We were happily berthed and on a good spot for photography from the fish quay opposite:

Several visitors were taking pictures of the boat, not sure if they were Nordhavn dreamers or just thought she was a strange looking thing amongst the yachts.

After a decent night's sleep we dug out the bikes and cycled along the waterside, heading south. Here is the southern side of Davaar island with the Isle of Arran in the background:

Not too bad really. Just to prove there is still some timber being cut and shipped out, this was a small stack along the roadside:

with that lovely fresh cut timber smell too. We headed back into town and then around the north side of the bay / loch. Some nice houses there and this hotel looking impressive:

We remember it as the place that poor Roland, the marine engineer who did lots of Nordhavn work, almost stayed in. We say almost as he got there stupidly late, fell asleep on the bed fully clothed and left again before breakfast to carry on repairing the Kintyre Express ferry. For the full story look at this previous blog post. We still miss Roland and the random phone chats we had so much.

Back in town, the pet shop has a sense of humour:

which is much needed as a lot of the shops are empty, as are two old hotels etc etc. Sad to see as the location is beautiful and the buildings show just how wealthy the area was in the past.  Now it seems as though the only things flourishing are coffee shops and hairdressers. Only one of these is of any interest to the less than hirsute captain.

Another cycle trip took us across the peninsular to Machrihanish:

We hadn't completed the 100 miles walk mentioned on the notice board. More like 6 miles on the bike. 

The area is one we've only heard about in the shipping forecast when they report on the weather conditions there. It hosts Campbeltown airport which has the odd flight to Glasgow but a long military history. Oddly, in the 1980s it was a designated emergency landing place for the US space Shuttle! That would have been quite something to see.

There is a glorious beach in the area:

and we imagined trying to prize Izzy the doglet off there when we want to leave - it would not go well. They also have a rather swish Golf Clubhouse that some kind insurers paid for after a fire in the old building:

with an amazing course running alongside the beach itself. Our friend Niall had  a moment of glory there, coming second in a big open competition. It is nice to know someone famous.

All in all a good stay and plenty of bike exercise too. 

As a post-script, this lovely image of our boat passing Toward Point was posted on Marinetraffic by the Nordhavn dreamer folks we met in Stornoway. Tom is a serious photographer as you can tell:

Thanks Tom, hope to see you again soon.

Maintenance news:

The fuel polishing filter was replaced and the main engine temperature sender connections got a clean up. A few little jobs ticked off the list. Hopefully the cleaning up of the contacts will stop the strange behaviour of the temperature gauge that happened on the last long trip. We often see a quick reduction or increase in temperature as the second higher temp thermostat in the cooling system opens or closes. This behaviour was a bit different, more like a poor connection. If it happens again we will drain a bit of coolant, spin out the sender and give the contacts a really good clean - it was hard to access them fully in situ - then a coat of Stabilant 22 on the pins to help.

The big drive belt on the main engine was checked for wear too - a bit of full frontal, naked John Deere for you:

This full frontal is unlikely to make much money on the Only Fans website we fear.

We also measured up the pulley and belt as an alternator swap is being considered. This one works fine but (there is always a but) it needs 100% field current and quite a few rpm to wake it up. That causes fun when the external regulator tries to swap from bulk charging to float. So, some investigation into a nice new Arco replacement to go with the Arco external regulator was investigated too. Might well be a 2027 project.

Ardfern, Gigha, Carradale Bay

We had a plan of sorts. Feeling it was time to head slowly south, we originally wanted to try and get into Port Ellen on Islay. The anchoring opportunities there are not great and there are only 2 berths in the little community run harbour we could use. However, we saw that they only accept boats up to 12 tons. That just rules us out. Only by a teeny few tons of course.....

The debate was - "should we go back inside the Mull of Kintyre for a while or potter down the Irish costs slowly". Decision was to go back inside the Mull for a while, then Norn Iron, then see what the weather allows.

The next decision was when do we go round the Mull itself. Weather and tide times are ultra important there. The first part of the plot was easy enough, take a fair tide and anchor off Gigha. So we did, only the southerly wind was against the tide and made it quite a bumpy trip, nodding into the short steep waves. At least the 10am departure time was civilised. 

As we got to Gigha and dropped the anchor, so the sun came out. A lovely afternoon disturbed only by the little ferry heading back and forth, easily visible from the pilothouse as you can see:

Idyllic spot. However, we then had to decide about rounding the Mull. The tides dictated doing that sometime after midnight or waiting until the following day, leaving Gigha around 10am. That is way nicer of course but, as always in life, other factors intervened. The wind was due to pick up in the early morning, around 3am and blow quite strongly from the NE. We did not want to be off Sanda, (the little Island SE of the Mull) with a strong following tide and the wind blowing over the top of it. This image from the tidal atlas tells you how strong the tides are in the area:

Up to 3.4 knots if we went around at the "optimum" time to speed up the trip.

Staying overnight where we were with a strong NEly wind building would mean a bit of a disturbed night  - as you can see, the eastern side of Gigha is not too well sheltered from the NE.

The decision was to head off later that evening, aim to get to the Mull just as the tide turned in our favour and be well round it by the time the strong NEly picked up.  So, the best option looked like the least pleasant one time-wise and scenery-wise. So be it. Here is the track we followed, showing the anchor time off Gigha and then the night time passage around the Mull and up to the Carradale Bay anchorage: 

As we headed off, it was still lovely and sunny, calm and very pleasant indeed. Patrick the penguin and his constant companion were enjoying the views:

and a nice pink sunset on the clouds added the the experience a bit later on, even if this picture doesn't look that "pink". You will have to take our word for it - the sky was lovely:

We didn't cut inshore around the Mull for two reasons. Firstly it gets bumpy in the confused water on the western side and secondly, we've seen a few pot markers inshore there before. The weather was turning murky and damp - the worst conditions for our FLIR (infra-red camera) to work in. Normally we can spot properly marked pots pretty well at night but in drizzle / fog / rain it becomes a different game. The image is very degraded. If you want to be a real propeller head on why, look at the manufacturer's information in this FLIR weblink. If you have a more normal life and no desire to be a crashing bore on the subject at parties,  then it is down to water droplets scattering and absorbing the infra-red radiation that the camera tries to detect.  Sure enough, the camera struggled big time in the drizzle and rain.

Our timing to get around Sanda island and begin to head north was pretty perfect. Before the tide picked up too much and the promised strong NE'ly winds kicked in:

You can see we were getting tidal help, just not rocket assistance at that stage by our speed over the ground. Sure enough, as forecast, the stronger gusts arrived but by then we were further north and the sea didn't have time to build that much before we headed into the anchorage. Again, we stayed further offshore than you would in daylight, just in case of pot trouble. We anchored up in about 6 metres of water, near a lone yacht and tucked well into the bay for some lovely shelter from the waves that were building in the sound itself. You can see how nicely sheltered the bay is from the North, North East winds:

and we anchored pretty much where the little anchor symbol is.

The only image we can share of our arrival is this one, of the GPS position that we took as a reference against dragging the anchor:

Not terribly exciting we know but it was pitch black outside. 

We pinned the stabilisers, killed the engine and most of the navigation gear and turned on the anchor watch alarm on the Furuno kit. We then fired up the Furuno app on the phone which we can take down to the cabin with us to repeat the alert if we are dragging. Finally the navigation lights went off, the anchor light on and it was time to collapse into a welcoming bed. 4am is not our preferred bedtime we hasten to add. The trip was 18 hours including the time anchored off Gigha - tiring, but it worked out as well as it possibly could.  

Maintenance news:

Whilst pumping fuel through the polishing filter into the supply tank, the captain noticed that it was slowing down a bit. It needs  a new filter in the Racor device. That will get done when there is somewhere to dispose of the old diesel soaked one. We use quite a fine filter in there and as they pick up dirt in the fuel, they get even more clogged and the effective micron rating drops so they are harder and harder to pump fuel through.

One oddity - the big magnetron radar was used, it worked fine on longer ranges as always, showing the land of the Mull nicely when zoomed out to around a 6 mile range or more. However, when it was zoomed in to around 2 miles, the coastline became very indistinct. Turning off the automatic gain, sea state and rain clutter controls and winding the gain right up helped but it was not as it should be. Grr. We switched to the other digital radar and were happy we had a backup. Something to investigate.....