Tobermory to Dunstaffnage in the sun

Well, we had a hard decision to make. Our original plan had been to head out to South Uist (one of the islands in the Outer Hebrides chain) and the weather was just perfect for a gentle, enjoyable run out there. However, things were starting to go downhill in the forecasts with a couple of days of rain to look forward to. On the basis that being anchored off or in Lochboisdale harbour for what might be three soggy days with a very unsettled long term outlook, we opted to start slowly heading back south. Plenty of other places to explore / enjoy and we have some visitors coming in August who might find the Outer Hebrides a bit of a challenge to get to.

We wanted to hide up in Kerrera for a while to enjoy the rather wonderful welcome and restaurant there but it was full. Actually, that is not factually correct, the two berths and 4 buoys we could use were already booked. With the madness of West Highland Week coming up, it was only going to get worse. That is the local yacht race event that moves around, infests various nice places and displaces any cruising boats to other areas. The 2024 schedule looks like:

and everywhere in Oban / Kerrera (the island) will be rammed with racers. Usually up to 100 yachts, Carnage.

We don't actually like the Dunstaffnage marina operation much but opted to go there for a few nights as it had some space, it has a good bus service and / or cycle track in to Oban and the area around it is very pretty. Historically the organisation of the place has varied from appalling to just a bit bad. Time would tell...

The day was perfect. Just perfect. Sunny, warm enough for a flybridge trip all the way and an excuse to break out the sun protection stuff for pasty white arms and faces. This was the view heading down the Sound of Mull:

We don't often run the boat from up top, so here is what the helm station looks like:

The route to Dunstaffnage was timed to take advantage of the tide which can run quite hard through parts of the Sound. Once again Vessel Finder seemed to lose part of our track:

whilst Marine Traffic got the lot:

They must have many more shorebased stations capturing the data for them. We are too mean to pay anyone for the satellite derived data - we really do not need it. As it was a lovely day, several other yachts were out and about and a few commercial vessels too. Here is how AIS and our plotter saw them, Of course the ones without AIS are not visible without firing up the radar overlay which would really confuse you! It does seem that most yachts around here have an AIS transmitter now and they use it:

Approaching Loch Aline, the little ferry headed across in front of us:

Not the prettiest member of Calmac's fleet. Ardtornish point has the regulation little light tower and a ruin, only we were a bit far away for a good picture:

Pushing against the tide and into the wind, this Dutch barque was motoring the other way. At 98 years old (originally built as a whaling ship in Norway) she looked good for her age:

We hate to even contemplate the annual maintenance costs and how on earth they can be covered by charter guest fees. Lovely to see though. 

As we approached Lismore island (you can see it on the route images above - the "long thin one") there were a couple of yachts fighting the tide trying to come in our direction. With a nice rock in the way, and two yachts in the middle of the channel (no idea why) the ferry following us decided to divert to the south of Lady Rock. A good move as the yachts were barely moving under engine. 

Lismore lighthouse is pretty cute:

and the dramatic setting behind it is always impressive as you look towards the Nevis mountain range in the far distance. We crept into Dunstaffnage at low water and dropped onto the outside of the big breakwater as instructed. It is always fun contacting them as they use VHF channel 37 - most marinas are on 80. Our nice Icom radios don't have 37 on them so we rely on the handheld with a way more limited range, or just the mobile telephone. They seem better at answering the phone than a radio call by the way. 

Once more the admin in the place amazed us but we complied with the form filling and then chilled, enjoying the views as the evening drew in and some night clouds built:

A really great day. First end to end flybridge trip of the year too. Sad, but the weather had not allowed us one so far. The run took around 4 very happy hours.

Maintenance news:

Nothing really. The big Lugger was fine, it has done just over 100 hours so far this season, not exactly over-worked. The Captain was going to replace the drinking water filter in the galley but couldn't be bothered. Sloth has set in big time.